Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Welcome Dinner in Italy

When you think of Italy, what comes to mind?  Beautiful scenery, the melodic language, the Renaissance, gorgeous ceramics, old churches, amazing architecture, limoncello, art, the autostrada (highway), very old buildings, leather, the Alps, more churches, the sea…?  I am sure many if not all these items come to mind, but admit it, the food would top your list.

After spending our first week on this trip touring in the North, we ate at several mediocre restaurants.  Granted we were in tourist spots in the lakes region and the Riviera, but as my son tried to put it in perspective for me, he said to think of it like being in the Adirondacks of New York.  In any case, yesterday we arrived at the home of my cousin, who is a doctor, and were treated to a wonderful ‘light’ supper starting around 8:00pm.  Focus on the word starting.  First came a big bowl of delicious fusilli pasta with a light homemade tomato sauce and fresh Parmesan.  After discussing truffles, my cousin fetched a big hunk of one made by a grateful patient, and he proceeded to grate some on top of the pasta. Naturally some homemade wine called Aglianico, typical from the area of Benevento, filled our glasses, given to him by another thankful patient.   Although I don’t really drink much any more, I could not pass up wine in Italy.  It was a smooth red that went down too easily.

Our bowls emptied quickly, and then came another clean dish, which we filled with scrumptious green olives, home made carciofi, bruschetta with eggplant and artichokes, cheese ­­­­with tartufo, fresh bread, and a salad with melt-in-your-mouth tomatoes.  They have a dressing here called aceto balsamico from Moderna.  You can put it on more than just the salad and we did.  It seemed to go well with many tastes.  While savoring all these amazing foods, a second bottle of wine was opened, and I partook even more. The expression is “Riempi il bicchier che è vuoto, vuota il bicchier che è pieno, non lo lasciar mai pieno non lo lasciar mai vuoto” which means when the glass is empty you fill it and when it is full, you empty it.  In other words, you always have to drink, therefore… the second bottle.  Just when we thought we were done, out came a plate of freshly cooked sausages to end the ‘light’ supper.

As we sat back and sighed with total contentment, out came a bowl of fresh fruit and an ice cream dessert with raspberries.  Naturally we needed something to drink with that, so a bottle of Grappa appeared and yes, it was homemade by yet another appreciative patient.  To accompany the Grappa for those of us not inclined to finish the meal with a 40% alcohol beverage, there was ­­­­Passito di Zibibbo from Sicilia.  Again, for me, the non-drinker, it was delicious and I enjoyed it quite a bit.

As my husband sliced up a fresh peach, it was suggested he drop it in his wine glass and let it sit for a bit.  This tradition I know from my father and grandparents.  After retrieving it with a fork, he enjoyed its sweet taste infused with wine flavor.  Our taste receptor cells had worked overtime and were now settling back to savor the entire experience.  Not only was there fantastic food, but the company of family, the exchange of Italian and English, and the laughter made the evening one for the books. 

As I sit here early in the morning, waiting for everyone else to awaken, I wonder what is in store for us today, not only for our taste buds, but also for our camera lenses and our souls.  In any case, I am grateful for my family in Italy, grateful because we are able to travel and be in the land of my roots, and grateful for the appreciative patients of my cousin.  Ciao for now!
We were totally involved in the meal, and so sorry to say I didn't take a photo of any of it! 

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Driving in Rural Italy

Making the decision to drive in a foreign country should not be taken lightly.  There are many things to take into account including your confidence as a driver, knowing the language of the road signs, and your familiarity with the area.  In the summer of 2010, Chris and I celebrated our 25th anniversary with a 2-week trip to Italy.  One week would be visiting my relatives and the other week exploring Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast more in-depth.

We decided to rent a car this time.  The Amalfi Coast is best explored on your own in a car, getting into the nooks and crannies of the area.  We both obtained our international driving permits from AAA, which are valid for one year.  I prepared by mastering all the vocabulary necessary for being in a car.  A flat tire.  Una gomma terra. Where is the nearest gas station?  Dov'è il distributore di benzina più vicino?  Turn right…Voltare a destra.  Not only that, but I printed out a copy of all the road signs, in color of course, which we kept in the glove compartment of our Fiat 500.

Driving along the Amalfi Coast is not for the faint of heart; nor is riding shotgun.  The roads are windy and narrow, with tour buses turning tight corners and motorcyclists zooming in between the cars and buses.  But Chris was a champion driver and not fazed by the driving habits of the locals. 

When we left the Amalfi area and ventured inland, the autostrada (country roads) was not bad at all.  The superstrada is what they call the highways and they, too, were easy to drive.  There were posted speeds and for the most part, people followed them. To tell you the truth, driving on the Los Angeles freeway system is far scarier than any superstradas in Italy. 

There was one experience that was hair-raising though.  We were staying in the little village of Santa Croce del Sannio in the province of Benevento, a few hours south of Rome.  This is where my grandfather was born and where some cousins still live.  Chris and I decided to take a drive one late morning between breakfast and the big dinner meal of the day that was going to be served about 2:00.  We set out to the nearby town of Marcone and took the Via Strada Bocca della Selvo that was a wonderful drive up in the mountains.   There were no other cars on the road, so I decided this was a good time to get behind the wheel and officially drive in Italy.  Up until this point, I was serving better as the Italian speaking co-pilot who could read the signs.  The beauty of the area reminded us of driving in the Rockies with the majestic mountains, although they were not nearly as high as the Rockies.  We came across cows, goats, hay fields, and gorgeous wildflowers.

The drive back was not as peaceful though.  The sky clouded up informing us that a storm was imminent.  We got to the autostrada and came to a sign that pointed us to the right back to Santa Croce del Sannio, but to the left we saw the town of Santa Croce del Sannio and the church spire which we had visited the day before.  We decided to follow the signs but after about 5 miles or so, we found ourselves climbing a mountain getting further from the spire.  So we decided to turn around and follow our nose back to the spire of our village. 

Shortly thereafter, the rain began to fall and by the time we reached the village it was pounding down, making visibility nearly nonexistent.  We didn’t recognize the turn to our cousin's house, but thought we should try it anyway.  The road started off very narrow, but kept getting narrower and narrower.  Soon we found ourselves at a dead end with an apartment door staring us down.  We were not on a road after all, but rather on an alleyway.  So Chris had to back up in the blinding downpour through the narrow alley.  He was a master; I was a mess. 

At some point we also hit a curb and our hubcap popped off.  We couldn’t just leave it there cause heaven knows how much the rental car agency would charge us for a new one, so Chris went out to retrieve it, getting christened in the Italian rain. 

Tough times call for tough measures.  Chris had an iPhone and though we were not going to use it because of the roaming charges, we quickly opened the Google Map and inserted my cousin’s address.  Lo and behold, we discovered we were NOT in our hilltop village but rather in the hilltop village of Sassinoro, which also has a church in the center.  Duh!  That just about describes every little village we passed.

So no more following our noses when driving in a new area.  We kept an eye on the iPhone and made it home about 20 minutes later, albeit late for dinner. 
Driving in the mountains along the Via Bocca della Strada.  Our Fiat 500 can be seen on the right.

The mountains here reminded us of the American west, but on a smaller scale.
Lots of cows and...
...goats along the mountain road.
See, I DID drive in Italy too!  Notice the impending storm clouds starting to roll in...
Driving along the Amalfi Coast road.
The Amalfi Coast road (ocean to the right)
The Amalfi Coast road
Looking up at the Amalfi Coast road from a boat.
Looking up at the Amalfi Coast road from a boat, winding its way into another tunnel.
One more shot of the Amalfi Coast road from the boat.  This blog focused on the driving experiences in Italy, so that is why the focus of the photos is on the roads..  


Would we drive again in Italy?  Absolutely!  However, we will be sure to have a local map in the car and be ready to put on the iPhone map.  Don't be afraid to drive in Italy, just be prepared.  

Does anyone have a driving story to share?